Asaba is one of the rare luxury ryokans that potentially offers a unique experience each time one stays there. In our case, the difference was in the performance. We made reservations on a date where a Shamisen (a traditional, three-stringed Japanese instrument) performance was planned. And this was no ordinary Shamisen concert. It featured Nakasaburo Shinnai (新内 仲三郎), a designated "living national treasure." along with his son Tagatayu Shinnai (新内 多賀太夫.) It did not disappoint! We were able to watch the proceedings on Asaba's gorgeous lake from the comfort of our spacious and stylish Moegi Suite Room. Afterwards, Mr. Shinnai gave a talk in the lobby area, and even gave an encore performance for the small group of guests that were staying at Asaba (only guests are able to attend the concert.) It was truly a magical night for us, and reason alone for staying at this ryokan. There are other traditional performing arts that are sporadically scheduled throughout the year, including Noh stage performances - that's the target for our next stay here. Even without a live event, Asaba is a standout among Japan's luxury ryokans. It sits right near the heart of historic and lively Shuzenji town, is traditional in its decor but modern and fresh in its amenities, has a wonderful garden that includes a picturesque lake and a Noh stage that is hundreds of years old, its staff are refined in their manners and warm in their smiles, the communal open-air Onsen hot spring baths are stunningly beautiful and tranquil, and the kaiseki cuisine served at Asaba is absolutely divine - out of the dozen-plus dishes that were served, not a single one was a repeat offering from the time we stayed there last Spring. And yet everything was unique, creative and mouth-watering. The kitchen staff do a spectacular job in focusing on seasonal and local ingredients yet delivering a world-class dining experience. We booked two rooms (we were a group of four this time) - the aforementioned Moegi, along with Hagi, which is located on the first floor. Both are superb accommodations but differ in their charm and aesthetics. Moegi is on the 2nd floor and faces the lake, offering up the iconic lake + Noh stage view that you'll see all over the internet. It's also the preferred room during scheduled events, since performances take place on the lake (weather permitting; otherwise, it happens indoors.) Hagi, but contrast, is on the ground floor and does not have the same view. Rather, it has its own, stunningly gorgeous, view of a wonderfully manicured garden with a spectacular stream in front and a variety of trees beyond. The in-room Onsen bath is also of the open-air variety with a front-row view of the garden, unlike Moegi, which is located inside. If I was asked to choose between the two, I'd recommend Moegi for a first stay (or on event days) and Hagi for subsequent stays at Asaba. Given Japan's plethora of top-notch luxury ryokans, we rarely (if ever) grant a second stay at any prope
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